Surfing
A NEW LOVE
Surfing is an incredible experience, there really is nothing like it. I am so lucky to have the best playground of waves in our own backyard (well, down the road a few miles). I took a surf lesson at the Hans Heidemann surf school on our first trip to Hawaii. It was love at first wave! As soon as I got to Hawaii I went on the search for my first board. I wanted something affordable (cheap) that could carry me through my learning curves while I got better acclimated to the ocean. I found an old longboard at the North Shore Surf Shack for just over $100. It's a 10ft beast, perfect for beginners like myself. Although cheap, I wanted my board to be personalized. I've always loved octopus art and wanted to include an ocean element to the design. I picked a few of my favorite colors and played around with the animal muse. The end result was my first rideable work of art. Now I ride a custom 9' singlefin lovingly set up by my boyfriend, shaped by Nat Woolley, and glassed by Steve Eichner... my goddess board.
Oahu surfing
Where to surf on Oahu depends highly on the swell forecast, weather, and your overall skills as a surfer (longboarder, shortboarder, ect.) Every shoreline of the island has a different reef break, causing the waves to behave differently, the shore character to fluctuate, and changing the wave size from small, rolling, fun-sized waves to monstrous, deadly barrels meant solely for the pros.
Never underestimate the ocean, especially in Hawai'i.
So, a good place to start is checking to see if there are waves where you want to surf. A great app for finding your perfect break is Surfline. This app allows you to see a full breakdown of where, when and how big all the popular spots are behaving. It might be flat in town, but North Shore is pumping... or vice versa.
Next, know your skill level. Are you a novice or a little more experienced, maybe even a pro? Probably not a pro, or you wouldn't be getting surf advice from a chick from the midwest (hahaha).
​
I do have a few favorite surf spots (for longboarding) that vary depending on the season and swell:
​
North Shore
Ali'i - fun and easy starter spot, but can get hairy in the winter months
​
Pua'ena - also a fun and easy place to learn on the inside, watch out for the rocks on the left... good waves on the outside break
​
Laniakea "Lani's" - love this spot for longboarding, usually not super crowded and the paddle out isn't bad
​
Chuns - love this break but generally always packed with surf schools now, still a fun wave... lot's of urchins, don't get caught on the inside whitewash
​
Ehukai - super fun when the sandbar forms, cool shore-break spot when it's not pipeline sized
​
Pupukea "poops" - another fun shore-break, pretty sandy bottom, some random reef and rocks
​
Gas Chambers "chambers" - a little more reefy, very fun wave
​
Monster Munch "mush" - short paddle for a fun wave, a couple big reef heads
​
Kammieland "Kammies" - a bit longer paddle, small waves break a lot harder than they look out there
​
Sunset - a long paddle for me, but a fun and powerful wave
​
Kahana - brown water bay break, a fun but fishy smelling area, usually gives sharky vibes but we always have fun here... don't surf the doodoo water after a big rain (river runoff)
​
South Shore
White Plains - usually packed with kookie people on soft-tops but a good place to start, strong current and can be pretty sharky
​
Iroquois Point - easy paddle out, usually empty and easy waves, but even sharkier
​
Bowls (Ala Moana Rockpile) - this was my favorite spot when I first started surfing. It's a tough learning ground, but when the waves are good it's sooo worth the pounding. Tons of urchins here, and respect the locals or they will put you in check
​
Pops - this is a LOOOONG paddle... I've gone out from Canoes and also from a rock jetty by the hotels, anyway you cut it... it's going to be a long paddle. Fun, secluded waves.. it's usually not too busy out there because it takes more energy to reach the break
​
Canoes - next to Queens, you'll see the swarm of kooks, soft tops and surf schools and the occasional impressive long boarder dodging all of them in a mass of stress-inducing waves that is *Canoes*. If you stick to the inside lefts you can catch some empty waves, but be warned... don't be surprised if your favorite board gets dinged here. 90% of the people here are either terrible or trying to learn how to not be terrible, and you also have to avoid the outrigger canoes randomly coming through. I avoid this break, but it can be fun if a big set comes and clears everyone out on the inside.
​
Queens - left of Canoes (looking at the ocean) sits the royal break of *Queens*. Many regulars frequent this spot, and they will make you very aware that this is "their spot". Unless you're really good or looking for a fight, I would avoid dropping in on anyone here. This break can be really fun if the crowd is cool.
​
Publics - a fun break across from the zoo, just watch out for the big reef head... this is where I surfed for the first time with Hans Hedemann surf school
​
Diamond Head "lighthouse" - drive around Diamond Head and look down the cliffside to see a few breaks on this side of the island. There's a channel just out from the lighthouse and either side is fun to surf. It can get a little shallow and a Tiger shark "Brownie" is known to patrol the area, but it's always been a fun surf here. The water gets a little murky, caused from different kinds of sediment found on this side of the island that gives it its distinct, brown-green color. There's a couple routes to access the beach, a long, tapering road to the West or a steep winding trail straight inland that starts near the parking lot lookout area. I usually go for the trail because it's faster, but not the most fun with a longboard.
​
​
